Here’s a few things I noticed with the Sony a7 and metabones adapter:
The idea is great, sharp lenses with a great sensor.
Autofocus (AF) generally work alright with L lenses.
AF hunts a bit, focusing took about 4 secs with the 17-40L.
Focus peaking works, but still requires a bit of practise.
That being said, I’ll let the photos speak for themselves. There is minimal post processing in the following photos so you can get a better idea of what to expect out of the camera and lens combination.
When you nail the , the combination of quality glass and the Sony sensor delivers even in the dark.
This one is all about the sensor, plenty of highlight and shadow detail that I managed to recover in Lightroom for this shot.
This photo had noise reduction performed in camera by the ay. My advise, turn off the automatic long exposure noise reduction otherwise you’ll be standing there for another 5 minutes waiting for the image to process.
Next up will be a more thorough test of the camera with a fast Canon prime at Vivid Sydney.
This thing is the real deal: Tack sharp wide open, surprisingly rectilinear and with RIDICULOUS optical image stabilization
– David Hobby
If you don’t know who David Hobby is, he is the strobist, and here is his blog, this is him on DigitalRevTV doing the Pro Photog Cheap Camera Challenge, and just a super cool dude overall.
While I don’t have the luxury of trying out unreleased lenses, I do keep an eye out for these things and David Hobby just posted up 5 photos he took with his pre-release copy in Dubai. You can see them in all their their hi-res glory on this flickr set.
Just reading through his captions and the images themselves, the things that jump out immediately are:
The lens is really sharp, like REALLY sharp
Distortion is extremely well controlled, no sign of barreling or pin-cushioning
The short focal length and OIS allowed him to get handheld shots at up to 2secs (I may have to try this one day).
Now, more about the lens … it’s full name is fujifilm XF 10-24mm f/4 R OIS and it is designed to be used with the existing range of Fuji compact system cameras (CSC) such as X-E2, X-T1 etc. The 10-24mm focal length gives a 15-36mm equivalent, while I’ve never used that exact focal length beforeI have spent a few days with a Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 and also own a Canon 17-40mm f/4L and Canon 15mm f/2.8 fisheye.
Note that the Canon 15mm is a fisheye, so even though it is a rectilinear fisheye, the Fuji 10-24 won’t be quite as wide. This will give you a good idea though. Optical Image Stabilisation (OIS) is an interesting addition and shouldn’t be forgotten about. Most camera manufacturers don’t bother adding OIS to ultra-wide lenses like these because they figured you wouldn’t need it. Both Canon and Nikon have yet to release a fast ultra-wide lens with IS/VR but that may change in the near future. The constant f/4 aperture is quite nice, I know a lot of people would prefer a constant f/2.8 but those are also the same people who refuse to pay up for it.
In this lens Fuji has managed to put together an optically sound, great looking, and robust lens that fills a void in their system while keeping it at a reasonable price ($999 USD on BH). Keeping it below the $1000 mark is key because let’s face it not many of us are willing to pay any more than that on a CSC lens (regardless of how awesome it is). Fuji has also managed to create a f/1.2 lens under that magic price point but I’ll cover that in another post!
As far as we can tell Fuji stepped up their CSC game, as an enthusiast I’m excited about where this is headed, as a Sony owner I’m curious to see what they’ll come up with to compete.
So here’s the deal, Sony admits there is a problem and most of us have seen examples of the problem, yet I still think everybody is overreacting.
If you haven’t heard, in simple terms, the lenses aren’t sealing well enough onto the mount of the Sony a7/a7r and under ridiculous (yes ridiculous) conditions will show that there is light leaking into your photo through the mount. Here is an example of such leakage …
This is where it gets ridiculous and I think most people are being picky. Yes the leak is pretty bad, yes a camera in the class of the Sony a7/a7R should not have these issues and yes nobody paid $2000 for this. The photo above was achieved with these settings: ISO 25600, 20secs exposure. On top of that the presence of a bright light source (flash, sun etc) needs to be in the area.
Let me just give you all a few minutes to let that sink in. Think back on your photographic journey and tell me about the last time you took a LONG exposure photo at ISO 25600 under bright conditions. Let me guess, you can’t? Neither can I, I do stupid shit with my camera just because I feel like it and I cannot find an example where I have personally used those settings (or anything along those lines). I have done 90sec exposures at ISO 100 in moderate lighting, 3min exposures at ISO 400 in the dark but nothing like the type of exposure required to bring out this light leak.
Anyway it’s not like this issue doesn’t happen in other cameras either, have a quick scroll through this site bringing up leaks in various DSLR’s. So if you were thinking about buying a Sony a7 or a7R and this light leak issue is putting you off … don’t be that guy, nobody likes that guy, especially if you’re a hipster wannabe who adds light leaks to your instagram photos because clean images are too mainstream.
P.S. Yes I acknowledge there are some of you who do encounter this problem in your field of work, my advice to you is to bring a DSLR.